This email started out as a briefing for my mother and father but then I decided post it on my blog. Enjoy and sorry for mistakes im pretty jet lagged....
Made it to China safely. Due to the flight being empty, I discovered I am officially three seat lengths long on Asiana Airlines long. I am finally satisfied with being 5feet -4 inches. I got to surf the tidal bore wave yesterday and, yes, I have become first femal to ever to surf this wave. Its an amazing thing and you can't miss me on my super bright pink longboard. I am very excited to be apart of a growing sport and giant new industry here in China. We have walks of all lives with us including political leaders, business owners, families, pro surfers, media, and camera men.
Qiantang River Tidal Bore Day One...
The wave comes in a very rapid pace with the incoming tide. We time the wave coming towards us, launch the pwc's , head upriver a few miles, then chase it and ride it until it dies. Different parts of the rivers make for the wave to increase and decrease in size and the way the river is shaped effects it. To put it in perspective, it takes almost 30 minutes from our launching point to get to the part of the wave we are allowed to surf due to restrictions and permits. When I first saw it coming at me my heart was shaking. It was a giant wall of whitewater in the distance heading right towards our skis. "Is that it?" We honestly couldn't tell until it got closer to our skis. Once it arrived we all were in shock. It was a stunning site. The river is not only huge abut now there is a giant wave spanning completely across it forcing it's way towards us. We ride as long as we can before our legs or the wave give out, then try to switch partners on the jet ski before the wave crumbles us. There are two police escorts, camera crew on boats aside us and two differnt jet skis for the surf teams. Big wave surfers Jaime Sterling and Mikala jones are one team. I am with partnered with Wingnut, so we are learning how to trade off quickly, maneuver our giant longboards around on a tiny ski, avoid getting attacked by the "Silver Dragon," while still trying to make it look effortless. Yesterday, was a bit challenging when I flew off the back of the ski during a transition because my leash got wrapped around the sled. Luckily, I landed right before the giant wall of water, whipped myself around, and rode the surge until my legs were burning. It was amazing and like nothing I have ever experienced in my life. Giant long turns, noserides and lots of knee-time when the open face turns to a wall of whitewater to allow my legs to rest then proceed again. Poor Wingy didn't get a proper turn, so tomorrow I will be the first driver. Meanwhile, there are large barges on the river to avoid, metal sticking out in various places due to construction, rocks, four major bridges to dodge and lots of weather elements in our face. Its pouring rain at the moment.
It is predicted that over a few million viewers will be heading down to watch this natural phenomenon that has been going on for over 300 years. This is the third time in history that surfing has been allowed by the government officials. On a normal full moon occurance it is illegal to surf in this river and most likely unsafe for a beginner or average person. Who knows if this will ever change, but the fact that we are here promoting action sports and a healthy lifestyle is a huge start.
I had a camera I bought in the airport that was both video and waterproof to show everyone what we saw up close and personal but when I got mobbed by media it got stolen in the mix. I am function on a only a few cylinders due to the lack of sleep, very jet lagged and slightly hungry. Our meals have been more than outstanding, well that is if you like traditional Chinese dishes, which I am picker eater so I stick to the greens. I like to pass on eyeballs, crazy looking fried things and bizarre looking dishes. The vegetables, noodles and my chocolate covered Goji berries I imported in have been quite tasty. I had the best peas I have ever had in my life yesterday. I didn't eve know I liked peas. Who would have thought?
Last night we enjoyed a dinner with our entire crew and translators. Then we were spoiled with a fantastic Chinese foot massage. So life really isnt too bad out here in China. I am relaxed, excited, and ready to take my cute bright pink longboard out for another spin on the challenging Silver Dragon River.
My alarm just went off which means it's time to go.
Wish us luck!
More updates to follow soon....
My first wave on the tidal bore
Wingnut and myself having a blast
Wingnut, this must have been after he surfed the wave
Police escorts as we head upriver to find the wave
Our Surfing China.org Crew
A view from above
Puts how big the river is in perspective and the size of the wave in certain locations.
It was much bigger then smaller in various spots on the river
Perfect Lefthanders
Wingut trusting my driving
"Is that it?"
Another fun ride
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